The magic of Mt Kenya’s snowy peaks, wheat fields

The entrance to Giraffe Ark Game Lodge situated between the Aberdare Ranges to the south and Mt Kenya to the east.

The entrance to Giraffe Ark Game Lodge situated between the Aberdare Ranges to the south and Mt Kenya to the east.

There is no better circuit to travel than the Nyeri-Nanyuki-Meru route. The views of Mt Kenya from different vantage points on the road make the discomforts of the journey absolutely worth it.

There is an unsettling beauty of Mt Kenya peeping through a curtain of clouds.

Something raw and unadulterated that speaks to baser instincts. It makes me gasp in wonder at the impossible magnificence of it all, and were it not for fear of alarming the old men sitting next to me in the matatu, I would break out in songs of praise.


As the road curves, I lose sight of the mountain, only for it to reappear at the next turn. It is like playing peek-a-boo; now I see it, now I don’t.

Nanyuki Town is itself blessed with Mt Kenya views from virtually any spot but the surprising thing is that the town has done very little to market itself as a vantage viewing point for Mt Kenya.

At the town centre, which is tiny, I expected to find entertainment spots with wide sweeping terraces from which I could perch on a stool, have a drink and enjoy the beautiful view.

I was disappointed. What you mostly get is a motley collection of nyama choma joints whose décor and ambience leave a lot to be desired.

For halfway decent views, one has to go some distance out of town to expensive resorts such as the Fairmont Mt Kenya Safari Club, Ol Pejeta Conservancy, which is run by the Serena Hotels, or Il Ngwesi.

This is a shame because the high pricing at these exclusive hotels means that the average traveller cannot afford them.

Wouldn’t it be something, to have at least one spot in town, well-designed, with good ambience, where you can go and relax, and enjoy the view without breaking the bank?

The Mt Kenya view persists even as you drive away from Nanyuki towards Meru.

However, once in Timau, my eyes are drawn away from the receding mountain top to the wheat fields that stretch out as far as the eye can see.

Depending on what time of the year it is, you are treated either to lush green vistas of young wheat, looking like a giant manicured lawn, or ripe golden stalks swaying gently in the wind, like molten gold poured over rolling hills.

It is breathtakingly beautiful. Then all too soon, I am in Meru County. Home.



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